So in my first post on plans for the Sew Your Kibbe challenge hosted by Dr T Designs I am going to focus on ideas for jackets and coats.
I love jackets and I love making jackets. One of the first garments I made for myself in my first year at secondary school was a jacket. Talk about throwing yourself in at the deep end – collar, lapels, sleeve insertion, flap pockets and I remember there was a lovely angled seam where I learnt all about clipping! You can see a picture and read about it here. Anyhow from that moment I was smitten with making jackets.
I’ve got a few ready to wear jackets I live in during summer including a really comfortable ponte one but they do really need replacing this year and Sew Your Kibbe could be the perfect opportunity to do that. At the moment I am contemplating several styles of jacket. I keep referring to the Kibbe jacket description for classics:
Should always be narrow and tailored with a smooth outline. Standard length is best (just below break of hip). Lightweight unconstructed jackets are fine when they are kept sleek and narrow. Blazers, cardigan-style, elongated Chanel (not cropped) are all good choices. Slightly longer jackets are possible when the corresponding skirt is also elongated to match. Avoid: overly angular jackets, oversized jackets, boxy jackets, cropped jackets and flouncy jackets.
I’m glad it mentions blazers as I really like this style from Patrones magazine 393 a relative has just brought me back from Spain. I think it looks good in the plain black and that it could be very versatile for wearing over dresses, skirts or trousers. I’ve never used a Patrones pattern and I am really eager to try them out.
Another style I am contemplating is a simple collarless style. Burdastyle has produced some good designs and I am leaning towards replicating the grey ponte one in the February 2019 issue. As I have enjoyed wearing my current ponte one I know that it will be very comfortable and travel well plus I have some fabric already eyed up for this.
There are another couple of styles I also like. The one on the left from Burdastyle from September 2016 and the one on the right from said Patrones magazine. Not much to choose between them but I think the Burda is more fitted and features princess seams.
Of course there is also the bog standard classic jacket. I have had Butterick 4610 in my stash for many years and I even bought some fabric to make it.
I still do like it but now that I mainly wear trousers I think I appreciate a slightly longer jacket like the one in Burdastyle October 2018.
I haven’t made myself a coat for several years and really feel I need to now because they are basically elongated jackets. However I am dithering about what style to choose.
I think a longer style (below knee) is really useful as they can be worn with skirts, dresses and trousers. After a bit of a drought Burdastyle did produce a great coat design in the October 2018 edition. I love how the lapels can be worn open or closed creating two quite different looks.
But I do have a love of overcoats because they wear so well with trousers. My pinterest board shows a selection of overcoats which I especially like in camel and grey. I am going back a long way to find an overcoat pattern I like in my Burda stash, in fact to March 1999.
Lutterloh also have a really nice design in their supplement number 308 but I don’t think it is economical to buy the supplement for just one design plus I would have all the pattern drafting to do – so much easier to do the tracing off of patterns.
Finally there is the lure of a simple trench coat and these are so good as transitional and lightweight summer cover ups. Burdastyle February 2019 issue has a lovely minimal relaxed design that I am imagining in a soft twill and I feel it is also a pattern which could also double up as a wrap coat if it were made in a woollen fabric.
So that’s my thinking so far on outerwear. I worry that they may seem too tame and I ought to throw a more flamboyant design in there. My flamboyancy would probably come through fabric choice and a nice corduroy or velvet could really turn some of those classic jackets into the dramatic.
I also feel some exaggerated lapels would feed into the dramatic classic in me and McCalls M4841 view B with its 70s retro feel has always appealed. Something to ponder on while I now move on to skirts and trousers choices.