The Kibbe guidelines for classic skirts run as follows:
Should be kept smooth and simple. Clean lines. Soft and straight or slightly flared. Minimal detail. Moderate length to match jacket length (standard straight: one inch below knee; slightly flared, mid calf; paired with a long jacket). Softly pleated skirts.
Avoid: Long, pencil-slim styles, full, flouncy styles, over detailed touches (pockets, gathers, trim).
However when I saw Dr T’s illustrations of skirt patterns for the dramatic classic type they appealed to me far more than the basic classic skirts. The dramatic classic skirts are not really ‘dramatic’ in the true sense of the word but appear to have slightly more detailing that a standard pencil or A line skirt.
I’ve had Simplicity 8175 in my stash for quite a while and even have the fabric ready to sew. I would say the colour veers towards my love of khakis and greens. I make no apologies for my love of what I call ‘sludgey’ colours which fall under the broad spectrum of khaki which can range from light tans through to darker greens.
I’ve really liked the asymmetric pencil skirts which have been around for a while now and these two designs from Burdastyle have been on my radar. I think the skirt with the buttoned flounce might actually fall into the soft classic category but when worn with a plain polo neck would still look very classic.
During summer pencil skirts can often feel a bit restricting and so I often prefer a slightly looser style at that time of year. I am thinking a more A line buttoned up style. I don’t have a pattern in mind but am contemplating using the lower half of McCalls dress pattern M7623 view D which I have used to make a skirt before
The Kibbe guidelines for classic trousers are as follows:
Clean, tailored styles with a minimum of detail. Plain front or trouser-pleated. Slim, narrow shapes.
Avoid: Extreme man-tailored pants (deep pleats, cuffs, etc.), oversized, unconstructed or baggy shapes, draped, clingy, tapered shapes.
I actually like a lot of different trouser styles and so this is probably going to be the guideline I am going to find hardest to stick to. I’ve been gathering inspiration photos on a pinterest board.
At the moment I am finding it very difficult to find ready to wear trousers which fit. I fall between two sizes. One size slightly too tight but the next size falling off me. I really can’t understand why there is the huge difference of about two inches between sizes. I have therefore been moving to the idea that I really need to make the majority of trousers just to get them to fit me.
To start off with I admit I do like a pair of basic slim black trousers in the wardrobe. I know they are a work wear staple and can be on the boring side but they are so useful for all kinds of occasions. I have been scouring my Burda back catalogue for ages and had settled on style 108 in 11/2005 edition. So imagine my joy when they popped up as one of Dr T’s choices for classic trousers. Just a simple straight pair with darts back and front.
The current high waist styles, which I have to say I love as I am a comfort first sort of person, are going to be included. I bought My Image magazine Autumn Winter 2017/2018 purely for the trouser pattern on the left. Then when I received the Patrones 393 magazine I found it has a similar pair (on the right) but I had already traced off the My Image pattern and cut out the fabric (a blog will follow) but it would be interesting to make the Patrones version and compare notes.
Here are some other styles I like which I said would be eclectic and some do not fall into the Kibbe classic guidelines:
Burda 08/2017 Style 113 – cropped flared (but low waisted so I might have to add an inch in the crotch depth). I think a stretch ponte would make these more comfortable to wear which I am seeing in boutiques at the moment.
Patrones Magazine 393 – cropped formal (just look at that lovely high waist) but they are tapered and cropped which the classic guidelines say are to be avoided but in my opinion they look so classic.
Simplicity 8457 – Wide ankle length. I’m sure I’m not permitted by the classic guidelines to have wide legs or cropped but I love this style. In fact I’ve just snapped up the pattern in a sale.
Burdastyle 9/2009 style 109– narrow menswear style with turn ups- just imaging these in a lovely grey tweed or brown herringbone for autumn or winter. These aren’t too mannish and so fall into the dramatic classic category.
Maybe I have too many choices now which I’m going to have to narrow down. So while I’m contemplating that I’ll move onto my final planning post about dresses, blouses and tops.